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Nothing new this week.

I didn’t have any time for woodworking this week, so there won’t be a post in the series on making a molding plane until next week.
Until next

I didn’t have any time for woodworking this week, so there won’t be a post in the series on making a moulding plane until next week.

Until next time…

Making a moulding plane: Step 4 – Boring (the Wedge Mortise)

This is the fourth part in a series on making a moulding plane.  If you haven’t been following along, check out the previous posts using the following links:  Making a moulding plan: Step 1 – The blankMaking a moulding plane: Step 2 – Layout, and Making a moulding plane: Step 3 – Making the grip and escapement.

In this post, I’ll show you how the wedge mortise is bored and how the mortise and escapement are finished.  At the end of the last post, we had sawed out the escapement and removed the waste material with a chisel.  Now it’s time to complete the wedge mortise and escapement.  We’ll start by securing the plane body upright and getting an 1/8″ drill bit chucked up.  We will need to bore two holes, one about 1/8″ from the front of the mortise and the other about 1/8″ from the back of the mortise.  Choose which one you want to bore first and secure the plane body in a vise so that the when you bore straight down, the hole will be leaning slightly toward the inside of the escapement.  In other words, if you are boring the hole closest to the front, position the blank so that the front of the escapement (the breast) is just off of vertical and leaning back toward the heel of the plane blank.  If your boring the hole on the bed side of the mortise, you want the bed side of the escapement nearly vertical and leaning slightly toward the toe of the blank.  If this doesn’t make sense, leave me a comment and I’ll post something graphical to clarify.  You will also want to lean your boring tool slightly so that the hole runs toward the escapement side of the plane instead of straight up and down.  More on that later. . .

I used a gimlet bit in my brace, but you can use pretty much any set up you have available.

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If you use an electric drill, set it to run as slow as you can.  You want to be able to control the direction and depth of the hole as much as possible. One advantage to using a gimlet bit is that the bit can be steered more easily than a brad-point bit while the hole is getting started.  You might be able to get a similar level of control with an 1/8″ machinist drill bit as well – just make sure to use an awl or punch to make indentations for the start of the hole.

Bore these holes slowly and back the bit out every few turns.  The bits won’t be able to clear chips out of the hole and will tend to get very hot which can ruin the bit.  It’s wise to place the bit on the outside of the plane along the grip so you can use some type of depth indicator or stop on the bit.  You will want the bit to just clear the top of the escapement and then stop.  A piece of blue painter’s tape works well as a depth indicator.  Just tear off a piece and put it around the bit like a little flag.  When the taped off section gets to the top of the mortise, you’re at your depth and can stop drilling.

The two holes will (hopefully) meet somewhere around the top of the escapement.   You want to see the bit pop out at the top of the escapement about 1/16″ into the plane body from the ramp area you left under the shoulder.  I didn’t lean my brace far enough toward the escapement side of the plane when I bored my holes and ended up not being able to even see the tip of the bit.  You can see half of the holes left by my bit in the photo below. This wasn’t ideal, but it doesn’t ruin the plane either.

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Once the holes are bored, use a 1/10″ chisel to start prying out the material between the two holes through the top of the mortise.  This can take a little time, but all you are trying to do at this point is open up the mortise so you can get an edge float into the mortise.

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When the mortise is open enough, start using an edge float to widen the mortise almost to the layout lines (leave a little extra for fine-tuning the mouth).

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It shouldn’t take very much time with the edge float to have the mortise opened up to close to it’s full length.  Next, it’s time to widen the mortise with a side float.  The side float is the tool you’ll use to make sure the side walls of the mortise line up properly with the blind side of the escapement and that the bottom of the mortise at the top of the escapement is exactly the same width as your wedge (3/16″ in the case of a #6 plane).  Use lighter and lighter touches with the float as you get close to your desired size for the opening.  Floats are extremely dynamic tools.  They can take very heavy cuts if the handle is lifted and firm pressure is exerted, or they can make extremely fine controlled cuts if used flat and with a delicate touch.

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At this point, we have opened up the mortise.  In the next post, I’ll show how to bed the iron and fit the wedge.

Until next time. . .

Making a moulding plane: Step 2 – Layout

This is the second part of a multi-part series on making a moulding plane.  If you’re just finding this blog post, please see the first part of the series here.

As I mentioned in the first part of the series, I highly recommend the DVD Making Traditional Side Escapement Planes with Larry Williams.  This is a phenomenal educational tool for anyone interested in making moulding planes and some of their history.

We ended the part one of the series with a wooden blank for the molding plane that is 11″ x 3 1/2″ x 21/32″.

Moulding Plane Layout #1

The first step in laying out the plane is to mark a 1/8″ section at the top of the grip.  This will be the top of the finished plane, but for now we have a little  extra material that can get beat up while we make the plane.  While we’re at it, mark a what will be the ends of the finished plane.  The finished plane will be 10″ long, so mark the layout lines about 1/2″ inch from one end and then measure out 10″ and mark the other end line.

Moulding Plane Layout #2

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Next, we need to layout the grip for the plane.  On the finished plane, the grip is 1 1/2″ from the top of the plane and is 1/2″ thick.  To make the grip, we’ll be removing a 5/32″ x 1 1/2″ section on the escapement side of the plane.  As a reminder, the escapement side is on the left if the toe is at the front.  It should be the opposite face from the reference face you marked when you milled up the plane blank.

Moulding Plane Layout # 3

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I made a mistake when I was laying out the grip on my plane.  I marked 1 1/2″ down on the blind side of the plane.  I guess I’ll have to live with a cutting gauge mark along the blind side of my plane.  If you do mess it up, it won’t hurt anything.

Once this is done, it’s time to lay out the back of the mouth of the plane.  This will be located 3 3/4″ from the front end (the toe) of the plane.  Measure back from 3 3/4″ layout line that will be the finished toe of the plane and mark a line at a right angle down the sole of the plane to indicate the back of the mouth.  The mouth will be 3/8″ from the escapement side of the plane.

Moulding Plane Layout # 4

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When the back of the mouth is laid out, we can mark the line that will be the bed of the plane.  I have a layout block that I use to mark this angle.  The bed angle you want will depend on the type of wood you will be working with the plane.  For softer woods, an angle of 45 degrees (common pitch) is good; for a mix of harder and softer wood, 50 degrees (York pitch); for hard woods 55 degrees (middle pitch); and finally, for figured grain or extremely hard woods, a bed angle of 60 degrees (half pitch) is appropriate.  The higher the angle of the bed, the faster the edge of the plane iron will wear and the more frequently it will have to be sharpened.  The planes I’m making are bedded at the 55 degree (middle) pitch.  When laying out the bed angles, make the initial layout 1/2 degree less than your target angle.  This will give you a little extra material to work with when you are bedding the iron.  My layout block has the right side cut at a 54 1/2 degree angle for the bed (the back side of the blade and wedge mortise).  The left side is cut with a 65 1/2 degree angle for the breast (the front of the mortise.

Moulding Plane Layout # 5

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I line up the right edge with the layout line for the back of the mouth and then use a marking knife to cut in the bed angle.

Next, I use a 1/10″ chisel to mark the front of the mouth of the plane.

Moulding Plane Layout # 6

Sketch-up doesn’t like 1/10″ increments. 3/32″ is a close approximation.

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Using the left side of the layout block, I layout the breast angle the same way I did the bed angle.

Moulding Plane Layout # 7

This angle should be 65 1/2 degrees.

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If we use the point where these two lines end at the top of the plane, we can mark squared lines across the top of the grip.  The space between these two lines will be the front and back of the wedge mortise.

Moulding Plane Layout # 8

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Next, lay out what would be the center of the grip.  This should be around 1/4″ from the blind side of the plane.  If your grip isn’t exactly 1/2″ thick, you’ll want to make sure you mark the true center of the the grip. You’ll be using this line to layout the width of the wedge mortise.

Moulding Plane Layout # 9

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The thickness of the wedges of moulding planes varies based on the size of the cutting profile of the plane.  For a # 6 plane, the wedge thickness is 3/16″.  We need to layout the walls of the mortise 3/32″ from each side of the center line.  Check before the final layout lines are marked to make sure you are at 3/16″ total thickness.

Moulding Plane Layout # 10

You should run the layout line for the blindside of the mortise down the length of the grip and the toe and heel of the plane to help with the layout.

Because the wall of the mortise on the blind side is so thin, moulding planes use what is called a leaning wedge.  Basically, this means that the mortise is cut at an angle so that the wall is thicker at the sole of the plane than at the grip.  At the sole of a # 6 plane, the wedge leans at about 1/8″.

Moulding Plane Layout # 11

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When determining the actual amount of lean , you need to know that the back of the mortise, the leaning line you just marked should be exactly the width of the plane profile from the escapement side of the plane.  A # 6 plane cuts a 3/8″ profile (1/6 of a 3/8″ radius circle), so the end of the leaning line has to be exactly 3/8″ from the escapement side of the plane, even if it is less or more than 1/8″.  Mark the lean on both the toe and heel of the plane.

Now we can layout the target profile of the plane.  This plane is a hollow plane (it has a convex curve).  A round plane has a concave profile.  The size of the plane determines the width of the profile and the radius of a circle that it cuts.  These planes cut a 1/6 radius of a circle.  Based on the magic of geometry, the width of the plane profile is equal to the radius of the circle the plane cuts.  I laid out the profile of this plane using a plastic circle template, using a 3/4″ diameter circle.IMG_2932As with the lean of the wedge, mark the profile on both the toe and heel of the plane.

Finally, these planes have a clearance angle cut along the blind side of the plane to allow the plane to get into tight spaces.  This angle is 60 degrees off the sole of the plane from the edge of the profile to the blind side of the plane.  For a hollow plane such as this one, the relief angle will run along the sole of the plane 3/8″ from the escapement side of the plane.  For a round plane, the angle starts higher up on the body of  the plane where the curved profile ends.  Mark the relief angles on both the toe and heel and  mark the line where the relief angle meets the blind side of the plane and extend this line down the length of the blind side of the plane.

Moulding Plane Layout # 13

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There you have it – all the major features of the plane are laid out.  There are a lot of steps in laying out a plane, but none of them are difficult or require any extraordinary level of precision.

In the next post, we’ll walk through the process of cutting the escapement and sinking the mortise of the plane.

Until next time. . .

Making a moulding plan: Step 1 – The blank

I’ve started work on making my second molding plane – a # 6 hollow to match the # 6 round plane I’ve been working on for the past couple of months.  As promised, I’ve been taking more photos of the process and want to give a step-by-step overview of the process in case any of my readers want to follow along.

First things first – I’m far from an expert plane maker.  As I mentioned above, this is the second plane I’ve made, but I’ve been happy with the results from my first attempt.  I picked up everything I know about making these planes from Larry Williams’ DVD Making Traditional Side Escapement Planes.  If you are interested in making some of these tools, I cannot recommend the DVD highly enough.  With that out of the way, let’s get started. . .

The first step in making a plane is to select the piece of wood that will be used to make the plane body.  First, what species of wood should you use?  The traditional wood was beech, either European or American.  Other woods that I have heard are good are maple, yellow birch, apple, pear, and cherry.  Basically, you want to use a wood that doesn’t vary much in the density and size of the wood fibers between the early and late growth part of its annual growth rings.  Woods that are consistent between the early and late growth are described as being diffuse porous (as contrasted with woods like oak which have notable differences, which are described as ring porous).  Using diffuse porous woods will help the plane to wear better because the grain is more consistent.  I was fortunate to find several 2″ x 4″ of beech that work great for making these planes, so that’s what I’m using.

Once you’ve chosen your wood species, there is one other thing that you should look for in the blank.  That is, it should be quartersawn.   This simply means that the growth rings should run from one face to the the other across the thickness of the blank.  You can see what I mean in the picture below the paragraph after next.

Once you have your stock selected, you need to determine which side and edge will be your reference surfaces.  Using reference surfaces is critical to getting accurate layout, particularly when you are milling lumber by hand.  Basically, you will choose two adjacent surfaces to be your reference surfaces – one face and one edge.  The reference face should be milled up as flat and free of twist as you can make it.  Then, the reference edge should be milled so that it is at a right angle to the reference face and that it is as straight as possible.  Once these two surfaces are prepared, the width and thickness of the blank can be marked based on these surfaces and the other faces milled up to size.  All the layout is then based on the reference surfaces because you can’t assume that the blank is perfectly consistent in thickness or width.  I’ll try to remember to write a post about the process sometime in the near future.

So now that you know what reference surfaces are, how should you choose which surfaces to use as references?  For furniture, it typically doesn’t really matter – you would choose the face that is most visible or that logically has to mate with another piece.  For plane making, however, the choice is largely driven by the blank.  First off, when making moulding planes, you typically want the sole of the plane to be the edge of the blank that was closest to the outside of the tree – the grip edge will be closest to the inside core of the tree.  You want the grip edge to be your reference edge.  Second, based on Larry Williams’ advice in Making Traditional Side Escapement Planes, it is easier to make the plane if the grain runs downhill from the front of the plane (the toe) to the back of the plane (the heel).  See the graphic below.

Moulding Plane Blank

If we look at the plane blank in the image above, the escapement and grip would be cut out of the side facing us.  This is the escapement side.  The other side is called the “blind side” because you can’t see the escapement or the iron from that side.  Since most of the cutting is done on the escapement side, it is more difficult to use as a reference face, so we will use the blind side as the reference.  So, the blind side and grip edge will be our reference surfaces.

Once all this has been worked out, plane the surface that will be the blind side face as flat and free of twist as possible.  Mark that face at the grip edge so you remember which face is your reference.  Then plane the grip edge so that it is square to the blind side and as straight as possible.  With this done, mark the desired thickness of the plane blank all the way around the blank (for a # 6 plane, the target you’re shooting for is 21/32″) and plane down the escapement side to that thickness.  It should be said here that I’m giving instructions for doing this with muscle powered hand tools.  The milling could just as easily be done with a power jointer, planer, tablesaw, and/or bandsaw.

With the blank at target thickness, mark the width of the blank which is 3 1/2″ off of the grip edge (remember, it’s our reference edge).  The finished plane will actually only be 3 3/8″ when we’re all done, but you have an extra 1/8″ on the grip so that the plane can get beat up a little while we’re making it.  Mill the blank to 3 1/2″ in width.  I used my frame saw after starting the kerf with a back-saw.  It could also be done with bandsaw if you’re cutting the blank from a thicker piece.

Once the blank is 3 1/2″ wide by 21/32″ thick, layout the length of the blank at 11″ using only the reference face and reference edges for your square so that the layout lines meet.  Cut the blank to an 11″ length (later, we’ll be cutting the plane down to it’s final length of 10″, but for now we have the extra length to take a little abuse while we’re working.

Now you have a 11″ x 3 1/2″ x 21/32″ blank.  The next phase of making the plane is laying everything out.  More on that in the next blog post.

Until next time. . .

One moulding plane done (well, almost)

The body of the moulding plane is done, now I just need to heat treat and sharpen the iron.  The final touches to the plane only took about a half hour or so.  It involved carving a curved profile on the shoulder between the plane’s grip and the lower part of the body with a carving gouge.  On future planes, I’ll actually be using this plane to make that profile instead of a gouge.

I also added bevels (also called chamfers) to the top and ends of the grip.  These are for comfort as well as for looks.

I tried adding a decorative notch with the carving gouge on the front and back ends of the shoulder, but they just didn’t turn out right.  I’ll have to figure out the right way to add them before I make the next plane.

Speaking of the next plane, I have started working on it and have  few photos, but not enough for my first blog post.  Things are finally starting to slow down with work so I hope to get some more time in the shop and can show the process for making these planes.  The process is surprisingly simple and I hope that at least some of you are inspired to try making a plane or two yourselves.

Just a reminder about the Facebook page.  There hasn’t been much activity yet, but I would love for those of you who woodwork to share photos of your own work, questions, comments, and anything else woodworking related.

Until next time. . .

Nothing new

Well,  it’s the middle of busy season in the public accounting world and I didn’t get any time to work in the shop this week.  I hope to get a little more work done on the moulding plane next weekend, but no promises.

Until next time. . .